The best way to see Hoi An is undoubtedly by bike. Head off into the countryside, meet the locals and have an adventure. I have provided four different routes for you to consider … however it’s definitely not necessary to follow them. I would recommend taking some random turns and getting lost good and proper. As this is where you will find the “real” Hoi An. As long as you can say “Hoi An” with a suitably bewildered expression, you are fully equipped to find your way home. So grab some sunscreen, your camera, the free Live Hoi An map (you can also use this article with the map as a guide – we have marked our suggested routes for your easy understanding) and go explore.
Top tips
- Stop for a coconut. The seller will slice it up for you to drink with an impressive looking cleaver and once you have finished slurping up all the juice, they will prise it open further so you can get to the flesh. The word for coconut is ‘dua’ (pronounced ‘yuer)’ and in Vietnamese language ‘dua’ with a downward tone means coconut, while dua with a rising tone means pineapple and dua with no tone means watermelon! So actually it may just be easier to point.
- Buy some ready cut fruit from a roadside vendor. It combines particularly well with the chili salt that they give you to sprinkle on top.
- Stop at the most dilapidated coffee shop you can find and chit chat with the men. You may find that this swiftly proceeds to drinking rice wine.
- Look for signs saying Pho or Mi Quang and have some noodles for lunch.
River & Vegetable Village Route – Around 8 km – The Blue Route On Map
This route will take you from the old town and eventually towards An Bang beach via Hai Ba Trung Road. This is particularly beautiful early morning and at sunset. Watch, or help, the fishermen bring in their daily catch. Cycle back along Hai Ba Trung towards town but take a right after the bridge. Meander along the lanes next to the river and enjoy the breathtaking views of the rice fields. Discover hidden family temples and gardens. Explore the vegetable village (Tra Que) which supplies Hoi An with most of its fresh herbs and veggies. Follow this road, taking the left hand fork just after the temple. Loop back round towards Hoi An and if its early morning buy some fruit at the local market – but make sure you haggle hard! Turn left at the lights to head back towards town. Have a rest in the gardens at the war cemetery. Take a moment to contemplate Vietnam’s violent history before cycling back to Hoi An town centre.
Paddy Fields Route – Around 6 km – The Red Route On Map
This can be pretty bumpy so this trip is best done with a well upholstered seat (either on yourself or on your bike). From the town centre head up Le Loi until you pass the tiger temple (near to the Tan An or Tiger Market). Carry on straight through the winding back streets. Cross over Ly Thai To street and into a small alleyway leading to the paddy fields. Bounce along the bumpy track through the middle of the fields, enjoy the lush serenity and watch the farmers and water buffaloes at work. The road will bend to the right taking you past Na Spa. Take the first left after this and the road will take you back into the rice fields. You then have the choice of taking the track to your right or your left. Right leads you back to Cua Dai Road which takes you back into town or if you are feeling particularly energetic you can hook up with the coconut grove route in reverse. Left takes you over to Hai Ba Trung Street where the options are left back to town, right towards An Bang beach or right then left to pick up the river & vegetable village route (you can go via Tra Que herb village and then to An Bang). The choice is yours.
Coconut Grove Route – Around 12km
This is my favourite cycle route in Hoi An – every single time I am amazed by how exceptionally beautiful it is. From town head out towards Cua Dai beach on Nguyen Du Hieu street. Take a right over the small bridge. The road swings left, right and then left again. It is pointless asking for directions unless your Vietnamese is pretty good as the locals will be determined to point you back towards town. Just follow your nose and you will find yourself in coconut grove country up at the mouth of the Hoi An river. Watch the locals make the most marvelous things out of the coconut leaves and stalks. Tables, chairs, boats, entire houses! I am sure it’s just a matter of time before someone builds a fully functioning motorbike out of this multifunctional material! The road ends when you reach the river. Chat to Mr Hung who lives here. Single ladies beware! Mr Hung, at 41, is unusually not yet married and is on the hunt for a wife. It is possible to take a boat across the river here. However at present the charge for this seems to be 50,000 (I tried haggling and they would not budge) which is ridiculous. A very pleasant alternative is to retrace your path a little then take a right through the middle of the coconut groves. Follow the map and it’s all easy. Explore the idyllic village at the mouth of the river. You may get an invitation to visit someone’s house – and say yes, people enjoy the company of foreigners. Drink rice wine with them and have a laugh. Enjoy the picturesque views of the brightly painted fishing boats. Get off road on the dirt track taking you round the shrimp farm pools which has a superb view of Cua Dai Harbour. Turn right back through the coconut groves and this road will take you back to Cua Dai Road where you can turn left to head back towards town or take a right and hook up with the paddy field route.
Cam Kim – number of kms is up to you! See Map Showing Boat to Cam Kim Island
Take the ferry from Bach Dang Street on the river in the old town. Just accept that as a foreigner you are going to be ripped off on the ferry price, take a few deep breaths and do not let it ruin your day. Once you get off at Cam Kim there are any number of routes you can take. I am not going to give you any instructions. Not many tourists make it out here so the people are incredibly friendly and delighted to see you. So Just get out there and do it!
Bike Couture
As many of you may have noticed by now, Vietnamese women do whatever it takes to avoid the sun meeting their skin, believing that white is better, while dark means you are poor and work in the fields. As a result many ‘fashionable’ versions of facial masks, gloves, knee socks and helmets have emerged to meet this market of female bandidas.
If you really want to adopt the local culture, go buy yourself some bike couture. Special thanks to our model, Natalie, for showing you how it’s done, Quang Nam style.
- Glasses supplied by ‘Sunglass man Lan’ at An Bang beach – 50,000VND
- Facemask by Mrs Nguyen near market – 30,000VND
- Gloves from Hien shop ‘Fashion’ near market – 35,000VND
- Conical hat from rice farmer Bao – 20,000VND + 1 photograph
- Stockings from Mrs Diem ‘style store’ in Cam Thanh flea market – 40,000VND
By Joanne Stewart
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